Henbane seeds for sale

Henbane plants

Part Used : Leaf, Flowering tops, Seed
Constituents : Alkaloid; Hyoscyamine, Scopolamine, Hyoscypikrin.
Action/Uses : Leaf & Seed; sedative, narcotic anodyne,
antiseptic, digestive, astringent, anthelmintic, antispasmodic, mydriatic.
Used in; dry cough, haemoptyxis, urinary disorders, asthma, whooping cough.
Used In    Ayurveda, Homeopathy, Unani, Sidha and Modern
   
Distribution: This species is globally distributed from North America to South West China. it has been recorded in Kashmir in an altitude range of 2100-3300 m.

Henbane is in such demand for medicinal purposes that it is necessary to cultivate it, the wild plants not yielding a sufficient supply. Both varieties were formerly cultivated in England, but at present the biennial is almost solely grown. Englishgrown Henbane has always been nearly sufficient to provide enough fresh leaves for the preparation of the juice, or green extract, but large quantities, chiefly of the annual kind, were imported before the War from Germany, Austria and Russia, in the form of dry leaves.

Henbane will grow on most soils, in sandy spots near the sea, on chalky slopes, and in cultivation flourishing in a good loam.

It is, however, very capricious in its growth, the seeds being prone to lie dormant for a season or more, refusing to germinate at all in some places, and the crop varying without any apparent reason, sometimes dying in patches. In some maritime localities it can be grown without any trouble. It requires a light, moderately rich and well-drained soil for successful growth and an open, sunny situation, but does not want much attention beyond keeping the ground free from weeds.

The seed should be sown in the open early in May or as soon as the ground is warm, as thinly as possible, in rows 2 to 2 1/2 feet apart, the seedlings thinned out to 2 feet apart in the rows, as they do not stand transplanting well. Only the larger seedlings should be reserved, especially those of a bluish tint. The soil where the crop is to be, must have been well manured, and must be kept moist until the seeds have germinated, and also during May and June of the first year. It is also recommended to sow seeds of biennial Henbane at their natural ripening time, August, in porous soil.

The ground must never be water-logged, especially in the first winter; it runs to stalk in a wet season. Drought and late frosts stunt the growth and cause it to blossom too early, and if the climatic conditions are unsuitable, especially in a dry spring and summer, the biennial Henbane will flower in its first year, while the growth is quite low, but wellmanured soil may prevent this.

Care must be taken in selecting the seed: commercial Henbane seed is often kiln-dried and useless for sowing. In order to more readily ensure germination, it is advisable to soak the seeds in water for twenty-four hours before planting: the unfertile seeds will then float on the top of the water and may thus be distinguished. Ripe seed should be grey, and yellowish or brown seeds should be rejected, as they are immature. Let the seeds dry and then sift out the smallest, keeping only the larger seeds.

Henbane seed being very small and light should be well mixed with fine dry soil as it is sown.

As seedlings often die off, a reserve should be kept in a box or bed to fill gaps, even though they do not always transplant success fully.

If it is desired to raise a crop of the annualvariety the plants, being smaller and not branching so freely, may be grown at a distance of 18 inches apart each way, but the annual is very little cultivated in this country.

If any annuals come up among the biennials sown, the flowers should be cut off until the leaves get larger and the stem branches.

There is usually some difficulty in growing Henbane owing to its destruction by insects: sometimes the whole of the foliage is destroyed by the larvae of a leaf-mining fly, Pegomyia Hyoscyami, and the crop is rendered worthless in a week. And when the large autumnal leaves of the first-year plants of the biennial variety decay, the large terminal bud is often destroyed by one of the various species of macro-lepidopterous caterpillars which hide themselves in the ground. The crown or bud should be covered as soon as the leaves have rotted away with soil mixed with soot or naphthaline, to prevent the depredations of these and other insects.

Floods may also rot the plants in winter, if grown on level ground. Potato pests are fond of the prickly leaves and will leave a potato patch to feed on the Henbane plant.

If mildew develops on the foliage in summer, dust the plants with powdered sulphur or spray with 1/2 oz. of liver of sulphur in 2 gallons of water.

When it is desired to preserve seed for propagation, it is well to cut off the top flowering shoots at an early stage of flowering (these may be dried and sold as flowering tops), and allow only about six seed-capsules to ripen. This will ensure strong seed to the capsules left, and this seed will probably produce biennial Henbane, weaker seeds being apt to produce the less robust and less valuable annual Henbane.

Seeds sown as soon as ripe in August may germinate in autumn, and thus constitute a biennial by growing on all through the winter and flowering the next summer.

Although the cultivation of Henbane in sandy ground near the sea, especially on the rich soil of estuaries, would probably pay well, it is hardly a profitable plant to grow in small gardens, more especially as the yield of dried leaf is very small. It is estimated that about 15 cwt. of dry herb are obtained from an acre of ground.

Parts Used, Preparation for Market---Henbane leaves are official in all pharmacopoeias. Some require that it be collected from uncultivated plants, others that it be not used after keeping for more than a year.

The official drug, according to the British Pharmacopoeia, consists of the fresh leaves, flowering tops and branches of the biennial variety of H. niger, and the same parts of the plant carefully dried.

The drug is preferably given in the form of the fluid extract or tincture. The smaller branches and leaves of the plant, with the leaves and flowers, is the drug from which the green extract and juice of Henbane are prepared, whilst the leaves and flowering tops are separated from the branches and dried and used for making tincture. The inspissated juice of the fresh leaves is considered exceedingly variable in its operation, and is not so much recommended.

The commercial drug presents three varieties, distinguished by the trade names 'Annual,' 'First Biennial' (the leaves from the biennial plant in its first year), and 'Biennial,' or 'Second Biennial,' the official drug, which is scarce and high-priced, the first two kinds commanding lower prices.

When grown in this country, the official Henbane plant, as already mentioned, is usually biennial. The leaves of the first year's growth are collected and sold under the name of 'First Biennial Henbane.' This variety consists of large, stalked leaves, attaining 10 inches or more in length, and is of course free from flower.

Under certain conditions the biennial plant will flower in the first year: this is also collected and sold as 'Annual (English) Henbane.' It closely resembles the biennial, but the flowering tops are usually less dense, and the drug often contains portions of the stem. Such plants are much stronger than the foreign imported annual, and being more carefully dried are richer in alkaloids.

Formerly the second year's growth of the biennial plant was thought to contain a considerably larger percentage of alkaloid than either the first year's growth of the same plant, or the annual plant, and only the actual flowering tops of such plants were official, but it is now held that leaves from the English-grown species of all the above are practically of equal alkaloidal value, though the imported drug is of much less value.

Much Henbane is imported from Germany, Kashmir and Russia; this is probably collected mostly from annual plants, and often arrives in very poor condition, sometimes mixed with other species of Henbane. In consequence, English Henbane has always commanded a much higher price. Foreign annual Henbane is usually a much more slender plant than the English, and as imported its alkaloidal value is lower than that of the English-grown varieties. This may be due to the large proportion of stem, sand, etc., that the drug contains, the whole plant being cut and dried. It is probable that the well-dried leaves alone of all the varieties are of approximately equal alkaloidal strength.

Harvesting: Much of the efficacy of Henbane depends upon the time at which itis gathered. The leaves should be collected when the plant is in full flower. In the biennial plant, those of the second year are preferred to those of the first; the latter are less clammy and foetid, yield less extractive, and are medicinally considered less efficient. Sometimes, however, the plant is destroyed by a severe winter in England, and then no leaves of the second year's growth are obtainable, and it has been suggested that this is, perhaps, one of the causes of the great uncertainty of the medicine as found in commerce.

The leaves of the biennial variety are collected in June or the first week of July and those of the annual in August.

The leaves and flowering tops which constitute the 'Second Biennial Henbane' are collected either with or without the smaller branches to which they are attached and carefully dried, unless they are required for the preparation of the juice or green extract, when they should be sent to the distillery at once on cutting.

The herb when required in the fresh state should be cut the first week in June, because in the second week the leaf-mining insect attacks the leaves, leaving only patches of white epidermis.

The herb requires very careful drying, as its properties are liable to be in great measure destroyed if kept too long in a damp state.

The fresh herb loses 80 to 86 per cent of its weight on drying, 100 lb. yielding 14 to 20 lb. of dry herb.

The fresh leaves have, when bruised, a strong, disagreeable narcotic odour, somewhat like that of tobacco: their taste is mucilaginous and very slightly acrid. The characteristic odour disappears to a large extent on drying, but the bitter taste then becomes more pronounced.

When the dried leaves are thrown upon the fire they burn with a crackling noise from the nitrate they contain, and at the same time they emit a strong odour.

The dried drug consists principally of the flowering tops. In commerce, it is commonly found in irregular rounded or flattened masses, in which the coarsely-toothed hairy bracts, the yellowish corolla with deep purple lines and two-celled ovary, with numerous ovules, can easily be identified.

The root is not employed in medicine, but experiments have shown that the seeds not only possess all the properties of the plant, but have ten times the strength of the leaves. They are also employed in pharmacy, having been much used in the Middle Ages. At the present time, they are much prescribed by the Mohammedan doctors of India.

The seed should be gathered in August; it may be kiln-dried for medicinal purposes, but the treatment renders it useless for culture, and if required for propagation seeds should be sun-dried. The capsules should be harvested before the lids split off, the seeds then being shaken out and dried in the sun.

Qty: 10 grams/pkt
Price Rs. 550/-
Other Qty: 20, 50,100, 200, 500 grams
In Stock: 50 Kg

For further information,please write to:
Chenab Industries
Ist Street, Shaheed-e-Azeemat Road, Nambalbal, Pampore PPR J&K 192121
Mailing address: PO Box 667 Srinagar SGR J&K- 190001
Ph: 01933-223705
Call us: 09858986794
e.mail: iirc@rediffmail.com
web: http://chenabindustries.blogspot.com

Kiwi Fruit Farming in Kashmir and India

Kashmiri soil is all set to produce New Zealand’s national fruit – Kiwi, as Valley Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC would be planting 22,000 plants of Kiwi from the ensuing plantation season. “Now, after four years we may have another fruit – Kiwi - available in the market. We will plant  22,000  plants of Kiwi this season, which will bear fruits after four years,” Director Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC,.Sheikh Gulzaar said. Excited over the increase in the annual production of indigenous varieties of fruit and expansion in total horticultural area, Sheikh Gulzaar’s fresh vision is to introduce new exported varieties of fruit in Kashmir, so that “Kashmir’s Fruit production offers a wide variety of fresh fruit in market.”

“We are blessed with temperate climate and fertile soil, so we do not face any challenge while introducing new imported varieties on our soil. Kiwi is a temperate fruit, and Kashmir’s climate and soil is apt for its growth,” Sheikh GULZAAR said.

He added that Kashmir witnesses 10 percent increase in its annual fresh fruit production. “We are happy with the production of our fresh fruit. Now our focus is to enhance the quality of our produce and to introduce new varieties of international standard. Kiwi fruit is one of the new varieties,” Sheikh GULZAAR added.

For introducing new fruit in the Valley, Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC exported the ‘Kiwi plant material’ from New Zealand two years back and propagated it into a mother plant in a high-tech green house at in Kashmir . The mother plant later propagated into thousands of Kiwi plant saplings, before being introduced into fields. 

“Now, we will introduce it everywhere in valley where irrigation facility is smooth. We hope that it will become one more cash crop of Kashmir in future,” said director Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC, adding, Kiwi plants would be introduced in both government sector farming and among private growers. 

The kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa) is a large, woody, deciduous perennial vine native to the Yangtze Valley of China. Seeds from China were taken to New Zealand and planted in 1906. Kiwi, besides being the national fruit of New Zealand is also one the country’s major exports vine.     

“It (Kiwifruit) is brown, egg sized and covered with fuzz. When sliced, the fruit yields an attractive emerald green flesh with rows of small, dark, edible seeds, and a light cream colored center. Its flavor is similar to a blend between strawberry and pineapple. The kiwifruit is high in vitamin C and can be used as a tenderizer when rubbed on meat,” Sheikh GULZAAR  said while giving the description of the Kiwifruit.

Kiwis are fun, rewarding & easy to grow !

Beautiful vines with nutritious and delicious fruit. They need a strong arbor, or trellis and annual pruning. Fertilizer and water are the remainingingredients needed to begin enjoying this exciting fruit.

VARIETIES: The Fuzzy Kiwi ( Actinidia deliciousa), is a very vigorous vine hardy to about 0 degrees F. The Hardy Kiwi ( Actinidia arguta) is hardy to about -25 degrees F. While the fruit is smaller than that of the Fuzzy Kiwi, it is sweeter and with its smooth skin it can be

eaten like a grape.

SITE SELECTION: The Fuzzy Kiwi prefer a location with full sun. Hardy Kiwi can grow in sun or shade. Kiwis grow well in both light and heavy soils, so long as they are well drained. On poorly drained soils, plant on sloping ground or make a raised bed so that excess water will drain away from the trunk. Avoid frost pockets. If space allows, Arctic Beauty should be given an 8 ft. spacing; Issai also can use an 8 ft spacing. All other kiwis can fill a 15 ft. spacing. Males should be within 50 ft or so of females for best pollination. Since male vines produce no fruit, they don’t have to be on a trellis. A nearby shade tolerant, low branching, evergreen tree of mature size (cedar, spruce, hemlock, redwood, etc.) can be used for a male vine to climb up. Planted near the outer branches, a kiwi can eventually climb 60 ft. Kiwis can also be used to cover a fence or grow along a deck. Fertile soil, high in organic matter is ideal for your Kiwis. Applying rotted manure or compost will help build up organic matter & fertility. When ready to plant, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. Slow acting materials like rock phosphate, kelp meal, and compost can be mixed with the soil in the planting hole. Potted plants should be planted carefully so as not to disturb the roots. Root bound potted plants however should have their roots pulled apart to some extent & spread to the sides of the hole. For all plants DO NOT LET THE ROOTS DRY OUT. Kiwis should be planted at about the same level as they were grown in the nursery. After planting, soak the planting area to remove air from around the roots.

CAUTION: Young shoots & leaves can be injured by light frosts. During the first spring, protection from late frost is important & is helpful in future years. Cover the plant when frost threatens or turn on a sprinkler. Sprinkling will protect leaves to about 27F.

FERTLIZER & IRRIGATION: Kiwis like to be fertilized every spring with a balanced fertilizer high in nitrogen, such as fish meal. Spread the fertilizer throughout the area of the vineyard to feed the Kiwis surface root system. Apply fertilizer before summer to avoid frost tender wood in the fall. Kiwis are shallow rooted plants. They need regular irrigation during the summer. A deep watering once or twice a week should be sufficient, if it doesn’t rain. Avoid over watering & hold back water in the fall to help harden plants for winter. Mulching a 2-3 ft circle around the plants with straw, compost or other organic materials helps conserve moisture & keep down weeds.

PRUNING & TRAINING: When planting we recommend that you cut the plant back to about 1 ft from the ground. Select a vigorous shoot to grow rapidly to the top of the support. Gently tie this shoot to a stout post as it grows, and later remove other less vigorous shoots. When the vine reaches the top of the support, tip it back, & allow two buds near the top to grow & train them along the support wires or beams. Tie them loosely with heavy string or plastic tape. These cordons form the basic structure of your plant. By the end of the second season, you should have a good framework established. Before spring, cut back the two cordons to 8-20 buds. These buds should produce your first fruiting spurs. Train the end bud to extend the cordon further along the trellis & prune it back the following spring to 8-10 buds to produce more fruiting spurs. Once the cordons have reached the limits of the support regular pruning can begin. Kiwis flower & bear fruit on wood that has grown fromthe previous seasons growth. Dormant pruning of female vines begins by heading back last years fruiting canes to 10- 12 buds past the last fruit. After several years, small weak wood should be heavily pruned to force new vigorous canes. Twisted, tangled, & broken canes should be removed as well as those crossing from one side of the plant to the other. Growth hanging to the ground should be pruned out or tied to the trellis. Excess fruiting spurs should be removed so that 8-12 inches separates each cane. As you prune your Kiwis, you will begin to get a feel for what should stay & what should be removed. Male plants are treated somewhat differently. Since they are grown only for flowers, they need only about one fourth of the trellis space in a small planting. Males can be pruned more severely to control growth & avoid crowding the female vines. Heavier summer pruning is widely practiced with male plants.

CAUTION:  Avoid pruning in early spring after the plant has begun growth, excess bleeding can occur & damage to the plant may result.

WINTER CARE OF THE FUZZY KIWI:  The biggest problemwe have seen in growing the Fuzzy Kiwi in western Oregon and Washington has been frost damage to the lower trunk. While the top of the plant is hardy to below 10 degrees when dormant. Sunny weather with very cold nights can cause freeze damage to the lower portion of the trunk. In many cases this damage is severe enough to girdle the plants causing the death of the top. While plants often send up new shoots, the top growth is lost. To prevent this damage, wrap the lower 2-3 feet of trunk with insulating material such as ¼ inch closed cell foam. Mulch heavily around the base of the plant as well if severe weather threatens.

Kewi Plants available at:

Chenab Industries

POB: 667 GPO Srinagar SGR JK 190001

Ph: 01933-223705

Mob: 09858986794

e-mail: cikashmir@gmail.com, iirc@rediffmail.com

Kiwi Fruit Farming in Kashmir and India

Kashmiri soil is all set to produce New Zealand’s national fruit – Kiwi, as Valley Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC would be planting 22,000 plants of Kiwi from the ensuing plantation season. “Now, after four years we may have another fruit – Kiwi - available in the market. We will plant  22,000  plants of Kiwi this season, which will bear fruits after four years,” Director Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC,.Sheikh Gulzaar said. Excited over the increase in the annual production of indigenous varieties of fruit and expansion in total horticultural area, Sheikh Gulzaar’s fresh vision is to introduce new exported varieties of fruit in Kashmir, so that “Kashmir’s Fruit production offers a wide variety of fresh fruit in market.”

“We are blessed with temperate climate and fertile soil, so we do not face any challenge while introducing new imported varieties on our soil. Kiwi is a temperate fruit, and Kashmir’s climate and soil is apt for its growth,” Sheikh GULZAAR said.

He added that Kashmir witnesses 10 percent increase in its annual fresh fruit production. “We are happy with the production of our fresh fruit. Now our focus is to enhance the quality of our produce and to introduce new varieties of international standard. Kiwi fruit is one of the new varieties,” Sheikh GULZAAR added.

For introducing new fruit in the Valley, Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC exported the ‘Kiwi plant material’ from New Zealand two years back and propagated it into a mother plant in a high-tech green house at in Kashmir . The mother plant later propagated into thousands of Kiwi plant saplings, before being introduced into fields. 

“Now, we will introduce it everywhere in valley where irrigation facility is smooth. We hope that it will become one more cash crop of Kashmir in future,” said director Jammu and Kashmir Medicinal Plants Introduction Centre JKMPIC, adding, Kiwi plants would be introduced in both government sector farming and among private growers. 

The kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa) is a large, woody, deciduous perennial vine native to the Yangtze Valley of China. Seeds from China were taken to New Zealand and planted in 1906. Kiwi, besides being the national fruit of New Zealand is also one the country’s major exports vine.     

“It (Kiwifruit) is brown, egg sized and covered with fuzz. When sliced, the fruit yields an attractive emerald green flesh with rows of small, dark, edible seeds, and a light cream colored center. Its flavor is similar to a blend between strawberry and pineapple. The kiwifruit is high in vitamin C and can be used as a tenderizer when rubbed on meat,” Sheikh GULZAAR  said while giving the description of the Kiwifruit.

Kiwis are fun, rewarding & easy to grow !

Beautiful vines with nutritious and delicious fruit. They need a strong arbor, or trellis and annual pruning. Fertilizer and water are the remainingingredients needed to begin enjoying this exciting fruit.

VARIETIES: The Fuzzy Kiwi ( Actinidia deliciousa), is a very vigorous vine hardy to about 0 degrees F. The Hardy Kiwi ( Actinidia arguta) is hardy to about -25 degrees F. While the fruit is smaller than that of the Fuzzy Kiwi, it is sweeter and with its smooth skin it can be

eaten like a grape.

SITE SELECTION: The Fuzzy Kiwi prefer a location with full sun. Hardy Kiwi can grow in sun or shade. Kiwis grow well in both light and heavy soils, so long as they are well drained. On poorly drained soils, plant on sloping ground or make a raised bed so that excess water will drain away from the trunk. Avoid frost pockets. If space allows, Arctic Beauty should be given an 8 ft. spacing; Issai also can use an 8 ft spacing. All other kiwis can fill a 15 ft. spacing. Males should be within 50 ft or so of females for best pollination. Since male vines produce no fruit, they don’t have to be on a trellis. A nearby shade tolerant, low branching, evergreen tree of mature size (cedar, spruce, hemlock, redwood, etc.) can be used for a male vine to climb up. Planted near the outer branches, a kiwi can eventually climb 60 ft. Kiwis can also be used to cover a fence or grow along a deck. Fertile soil, high in organic matter is ideal for your Kiwis. Applying rotted manure or compost will help build up organic matter & fertility. When ready to plant, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. Slow acting materials like rock phosphate, kelp meal, and compost can be mixed with the soil in the planting hole. Potted plants should be planted carefully so as not to disturb the roots. Root bound potted plants however should have their roots pulled apart to some extent & spread to the sides of the hole. For all plants DO NOT LET THE ROOTS DRY OUT. Kiwis should be planted at about the same level as they were grown in the nursery. After planting, soak the planting area to remove air from around the roots.

CAUTION: Young shoots & leaves can be injured by light frosts. During the first spring, protection from late frost is important & is helpful in future years. Cover the plant when frost threatens or turn on a sprinkler. Sprinkling will protect leaves to about 27F.

FERTLIZER & IRRIGATION: Kiwis like to be fertilized every spring with a balanced fertilizer high in nitrogen, such as fish meal. Spread the fertilizer throughout the area of the vineyard to feed the Kiwis surface root system. Apply fertilizer before summer to avoid frost tender wood in the fall. Kiwis are shallow rooted plants. They need regular irrigation during the summer. A deep watering once or twice a week should be sufficient, if it doesn’t rain. Avoid over watering & hold back water in the fall to help harden plants for winter. Mulching a 2-3 ft circle around the plants with straw, compost or other organic materials helps conserve moisture & keep down weeds.

PRUNING & TRAINING: When planting we recommend that you cut the plant back to about 1 ft from the ground. Select a vigorous shoot to grow rapidly to the top of the support. Gently tie this shoot to a stout post as it grows, and later remove other less vigorous shoots. When the vine reaches the top of the support, tip it back, & allow two buds near the top to grow & train them along the support wires or beams. Tie them loosely with heavy string or plastic tape. These cordons form the basic structure of your plant. By the end of the second season, you should have a good framework established. Before spring, cut back the two cordons to 8-20 buds. These buds should produce your first fruiting spurs. Train the end bud to extend the cordon further along the trellis & prune it back the following spring to 8-10 buds to produce more fruiting spurs. Once the cordons have reached the limits of the support regular pruning can begin. Kiwis flower & bear fruit on wood that has grown fromthe previous seasons growth. Dormant pruning of female vines begins by heading back last years fruiting canes to 10- 12 buds past the last fruit. After several years, small weak wood should be heavily pruned to force new vigorous canes. Twisted, tangled, & broken canes should be removed as well as those crossing from one side of the plant to the other. Growth hanging to the ground should be pruned out or tied to the trellis. Excess fruiting spurs should be removed so that 8-12 inches separates each cane. As you prune your Kiwis, you will begin to get a feel for what should stay & what should be removed. Male plants are treated somewhat differently. Since they are grown only for flowers, they need only about one fourth of the trellis space in a small planting. Males can be pruned more severely to control growth & avoid crowding the female vines. Heavier summer pruning is widely practiced with male plants.

CAUTION:  Avoid pruning in early spring after the plant has begun growth, excess bleeding can occur & damage to the plant may result.

WINTER CARE OF THE FUZZY KIWI:  The biggest problemwe have seen in growing the Fuzzy Kiwi in western Oregon and Washington has been frost damage to the lower trunk. While the top of the plant is hardy to below 10 degrees when dormant. Sunny weather with very cold nights can cause freeze damage to the lower portion of the trunk. In many cases this damage is severe enough to girdle the plants causing the death of the top. While plants often send up new shoots, the top growth is lost. To prevent this damage, wrap the lower 2-3 feet of trunk with insulating material such as ¼ inch closed cell foam. Mulch heavily around the base of the plant as well if severe weather threatens.

Kewi Plants available at:

Chenab Industries

POB: 667 GPO Srinagar SGR JK 190001

Ph: 01933-223705

Mob: 09858986794

e-mail: cikashmir@gmail.com, iirc@rediffmail.com